Location:Home
Saturday 25 February 2012
Thursday 23 February 2012
impossible
People keep asking me "what was the best thing?" which is impossible! It's been 4 months! 7 countries! 44 cities! But people still want an answer, so I'll try.
(I would ideally add photos to this, but my 8gigs of photos wont fit onto my computer now... time to buy an external hard drive....)
No one best, instead I present a short list:
-Arriving at Machu Picchu after 3 days of hiking. Just beautiful. Sunshine and mist, ancient ruins, incredibly Inca ingenuity.
-The Salar trip in Bolivia. Flamingos, volcanoes, cactus, salt flats... better than I could have imagined
-The lookout on our jungle adventure in Ecuador. Jungle as far as the eye could see.
-Being on a telenovella. It just was so random and hilarious and something I never would have expected to happen
-Iguazu falls. Breathtaking and exhillerating at the same time.
-The people we met. There was just incredible kindness and goodness. Gives you faith in humanity and is truly heart warming
so there you have it. the best things. But there was also Lost City, the floats and costumes of Carnival, exploring cities (La Paz, Cuenca, Sao Paulo, Medellin...), Kuelup ruins, the gold church of Quito, seeing monkeys in the wild, paragliding in Lima, the fresh fruit everywhere....
(I would ideally add photos to this, but my 8gigs of photos wont fit onto my computer now... time to buy an external hard drive....)
No one best, instead I present a short list:
-Arriving at Machu Picchu after 3 days of hiking. Just beautiful. Sunshine and mist, ancient ruins, incredibly Inca ingenuity.
-The Salar trip in Bolivia. Flamingos, volcanoes, cactus, salt flats... better than I could have imagined
-The lookout on our jungle adventure in Ecuador. Jungle as far as the eye could see.
-Being on a telenovella. It just was so random and hilarious and something I never would have expected to happen
-Iguazu falls. Breathtaking and exhillerating at the same time.
-The people we met. There was just incredible kindness and goodness. Gives you faith in humanity and is truly heart warming
so there you have it. the best things. But there was also Lost City, the floats and costumes of Carnival, exploring cities (La Paz, Cuenca, Sao Paulo, Medellin...), Kuelup ruins, the gold church of Quito, seeing monkeys in the wild, paragliding in Lima, the fresh fruit everywhere....
Wednesday 22 February 2012
Is it safe?
One of the most common responses we got after telling people about our adventures was "is that safe?" Many places we have visited can be dangerous, they are places where you don't feel safe to walk around without keeping a careful eye on your surroundings. We heard countless tales of tourists in serious danger. Drunk bus drivers overturning buses. Jeep drivers in the Salaar being reckless. Militants in Colombia burning buses (after everyone was off). Being held up at gunpoint in Rio. Apartments being raided in Quito leaving the tourists with nothing. South America has no shortage of scary stories.
Here are ours-- nothing as scary as what we heard, but nothing that was as safe as we feel in Canada.
Imminent Danger:
We only really came across this a few times on our trip. While in Quito there was a drunken fight outside our hostel-- cops came running, bottles were broken. Not good. A few times in Rio while walking we were suddenly very aware that there were a lot of police and a lot of drunken/shady looking characters. In these cases being smart (ie: not going back to the hostel till things had calmed down and making sure to stay in well lit and safer looking areas) was the best option.
Catcalls:
There hasn't been one country on our trip where we didn't receive catcalls from the street. There was of course a range: from harmless (whistles and a hissing that I found to be pretty gross) to crude (touching, leering, rude comments). It didn't matter how we were dressed or who we were with. It happened everywhere. Unfortunately the best response to this is to ignore it. (Which 99% of the time I managed to do.) It was tiring to feel objectified and, because the guy doing the objectifying is bigger than you, which makes you vulnerable. Argh. Feels good to be back in Canada. One of the biggest culprits of all this is terrible hollywood movies where white girls are happy to take off their clothes off 3 scenes into being introduced, and then these movies are shown on public buses to the masses. Argh.
Purse Clutching:
One of the hardest things to adjust to while traveling is not to trust people and to actively be worried about how to keep all of your things safe. It's actually emotionally tiring to live like this, but time and time again you realize that you want to, but you just shouldn't. This means that while your walking on the street you are clutching your purse. When sharing a dorm you lock up your bags. It means sleeping with your passport and wallet under your pillow. While traveling we met a girl who had her ipod stolen from beside her while she slept and countless people who had been pick pocketed. So while it wears away at your state of mind, that bit of paranoia and worry is important to hold onto.
As 2 white, female tourists in their 20s, we made an obvious target. An yet, here we are, 4 months later, with yes, a lot catcalling frustrations but also a lot of stories of kindness of strangers, all of our possessions. (Except for a few things I lost along the way... that was my fault). Here are my quick tips for general safety while traveling.
-Be careful, smart, a little paranoid, and ready for the worst
- I would often wonder what "evil Joy" would do. Am I a broke backpacker who steals to get by? What looks easy?
-If an area seems sketchy, (painfully obvious poverty, being the only tourist) get out
-purse goes on your lap. Not in the ground, not the back of your chair. On your lap where you can see it.
- Trust your instinct. If you get a strange feel from a person or place-- find somewhere new. One crappy hostel we went to (Hostel Sweet Hostel in Iguzau Argentina: DO NOT GO) someone had snuck into our dorms, unlocked our bags, rifled through them, and then locked them again so we didn't notice. One girl had $40 stolen and another her ipod. Hostel staff seemed indifferent and were overall jerks. We left as soon as we could).
The best anecdote I have is that my Dad (a big guy, not easy to mess with) has said, he's been everywhere and the only places he has been held up are Chicago and Toronto. South America: not super safe, but nothing that a little caution and paranoia with a healthy sense of adventure can't cure.
Here are ours-- nothing as scary as what we heard, but nothing that was as safe as we feel in Canada.
Imminent Danger:
We only really came across this a few times on our trip. While in Quito there was a drunken fight outside our hostel-- cops came running, bottles were broken. Not good. A few times in Rio while walking we were suddenly very aware that there were a lot of police and a lot of drunken/shady looking characters. In these cases being smart (ie: not going back to the hostel till things had calmed down and making sure to stay in well lit and safer looking areas) was the best option.
Catcalls:
There hasn't been one country on our trip where we didn't receive catcalls from the street. There was of course a range: from harmless (whistles and a hissing that I found to be pretty gross) to crude (touching, leering, rude comments). It didn't matter how we were dressed or who we were with. It happened everywhere. Unfortunately the best response to this is to ignore it. (Which 99% of the time I managed to do.) It was tiring to feel objectified and, because the guy doing the objectifying is bigger than you, which makes you vulnerable. Argh. Feels good to be back in Canada. One of the biggest culprits of all this is terrible hollywood movies where white girls are happy to take off their clothes off 3 scenes into being introduced, and then these movies are shown on public buses to the masses. Argh.
Purse Clutching:
One of the hardest things to adjust to while traveling is not to trust people and to actively be worried about how to keep all of your things safe. It's actually emotionally tiring to live like this, but time and time again you realize that you want to, but you just shouldn't. This means that while your walking on the street you are clutching your purse. When sharing a dorm you lock up your bags. It means sleeping with your passport and wallet under your pillow. While traveling we met a girl who had her ipod stolen from beside her while she slept and countless people who had been pick pocketed. So while it wears away at your state of mind, that bit of paranoia and worry is important to hold onto.
As 2 white, female tourists in their 20s, we made an obvious target. An yet, here we are, 4 months later, with yes, a lot catcalling frustrations but also a lot of stories of kindness of strangers, all of our possessions. (Except for a few things I lost along the way... that was my fault). Here are my quick tips for general safety while traveling.
-Be careful, smart, a little paranoid, and ready for the worst
- I would often wonder what "evil Joy" would do. Am I a broke backpacker who steals to get by? What looks easy?
-If an area seems sketchy, (painfully obvious poverty, being the only tourist) get out
-purse goes on your lap. Not in the ground, not the back of your chair. On your lap where you can see it.
- Trust your instinct. If you get a strange feel from a person or place-- find somewhere new. One crappy hostel we went to (Hostel Sweet Hostel in Iguzau Argentina: DO NOT GO) someone had snuck into our dorms, unlocked our bags, rifled through them, and then locked them again so we didn't notice. One girl had $40 stolen and another her ipod. Hostel staff seemed indifferent and were overall jerks. We left as soon as we could).
The best anecdote I have is that my Dad (a big guy, not easy to mess with) has said, he's been everywhere and the only places he has been held up are Chicago and Toronto. South America: not super safe, but nothing that a little caution and paranoia with a healthy sense of adventure can't cure.
home again home again
I am back in my apartment, typing on a computer (no offense iphone, you were nice, but typing with all my fingers wins over just my thumbs), listening to music I haven't heard in 4 months and I am enjoying the good things in life.
Such as:
-leaving my shampoo and conditoner in the shower
-not wearing flip flops in the shower
-a nice, clean, cozy bed
-delicious food
and of course seeing my family. So good to see them again--even if its around 0 outside and Southern Ontario in February is somewhat less scenic than Rio. It feels good to be home.
Such as:
-leaving my shampoo and conditoner in the shower
-not wearing flip flops in the shower
-a nice, clean, cozy bed
-delicious food
and of course seeing my family. So good to see them again--even if its around 0 outside and Southern Ontario in February is somewhat less scenic than Rio. It feels good to be home.
Tuesday 21 February 2012
I love traveling, not airlines.
What to do when the people who checked you in for the Rio-Houston flight, did not also check you in to your Houston-Toronto flight, meaning you miss it by 10 minutes-- because you assume you'd make it and they'd page you, right? but they don't page you, because you aren't on any of their information- so you suddenly have 6 hours to fill before you can get on a plane?
You eat a very delicious eggs Benedict after wandering through the 5 terminals at the airport and play online scrabble using the wifi from the united lounge across from your waiting area.
One more hour yet.
You eat a very delicious eggs Benedict after wandering through the 5 terminals at the airport and play online scrabble using the wifi from the united lounge across from your waiting area.
One more hour yet.
Location:Houston, Texas
How sweet it is
South America has shown itself to be a lover of sugar. Our driver on the Salaar tour being the best example; the ratio for his cup of coffee was 1 part instant coffee, 6 parts sugar, 2 parts instant milk. delicious? Brazil is no exception and sweet things are easy to find. Case in point, the sweet views of Rio from Pao de Azucar (sugar loaf mtn).
...google image search it.... And apply the same additional people math as Christ the Redeemer, well, maybe a little less.
It was my last day on vacation and it was worth the line ups. The view was stunning. The harbor, the beaches, the city amidst sheer rock faces, bits of green in undeveloped places... It's one of the top 5 views for sure.
...google image search it.... And apply the same additional people math as Christ the Redeemer, well, maybe a little less.
It was my last day on vacation and it was worth the line ups. The view was stunning. The harbor, the beaches, the city amidst sheer rock faces, bits of green in undeveloped places... It's one of the top 5 views for sure.
Location:Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Samba!
no expensive seats for us at the sambadrome (scalpers were selling for 100$ or so); instead we had a great time walking around, checking out floats before they entered the 'drome. Then at the guesthouse I took photos of the tv.
Each float was usually led by a scantily and sparkly clad lady, followed by a hoard (the opposite of scantily clad) dancers surrounding a mind boggling float. The float often had a few more ladies on it, along with other dancers. Everyone sambas though the drome, which takes around 90 minutes. The samba-ing is smooth and it (from tv at least) almost looks like they are on a conveyor belt.
(The samadrome-- the glitter can be seen from space.)
We saw a few ladies like this (what a big... smile she has!)
but 90% of the dancers were clad in piles of polyester, sequins, faux fur, and random accessories.
Accessories include but are not limited to: camel heads, tennis balls, sheep, mesh, turbans, spears, giant fake flowers, frills, top hats, and ruffles. And usually at least 3 of these elements at the same time.
Maybe it's because I can't speak Portuguese, but some of the themes escaped my grasp of the word "theme"
(sheep + giant wheels of cheese + doughnuts?)
But all of the floats, while perhaps stretching the limits of the theme, were impressive.
(a dude walks next to the blue circle and spins it while everyone sambas around it-- trippy)
While walking around the next day we saw people assembling the floats. It is really quite impressive.
As was the whole spectacle.
(that giant tiger head moves!)
It was the carnival that you think of-- but with more polyester than you thought possible.
Each float was usually led by a scantily and sparkly clad lady, followed by a hoard (the opposite of scantily clad) dancers surrounding a mind boggling float. The float often had a few more ladies on it, along with other dancers. Everyone sambas though the drome, which takes around 90 minutes. The samba-ing is smooth and it (from tv at least) almost looks like they are on a conveyor belt.
(The samadrome-- the glitter can be seen from space.)
We saw a few ladies like this (what a big... smile she has!)
but 90% of the dancers were clad in piles of polyester, sequins, faux fur, and random accessories.
Accessories include but are not limited to: camel heads, tennis balls, sheep, mesh, turbans, spears, giant fake flowers, frills, top hats, and ruffles. And usually at least 3 of these elements at the same time.
Maybe it's because I can't speak Portuguese, but some of the themes escaped my grasp of the word "theme"
(sheep + giant wheels of cheese + doughnuts?)
But all of the floats, while perhaps stretching the limits of the theme, were impressive.
(a dude walks next to the blue circle and spins it while everyone sambas around it-- trippy)
While walking around the next day we saw people assembling the floats. It is really quite impressive.
As was the whole spectacle.
(that giant tiger head moves!)
It was the carnival that you think of-- but with more polyester than you thought possible.
Location:Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Monday 20 February 2012
With yellow feathers in her hair,
Yesterday morning, after a slower start to the day than usual (blame the capirinias) we headed off to Copacabana (copa, Copacabana) to see the crazy beach life we had seen on AmazingRace and heard about.
After a bus tour of the city (read: bus driver says "yes, this bus goes to Copacabana" what he forgets to add is "...eventually",)we arrived. It was great-- soft white sand beaches, beautiful blue water, hot sun and hundreds of people. Hundreds. The beaches at Copacabana and ipanema are busy on weekends, so the Sunday of a national holiday... busy.
We walked on the surf for a while, soaking in some sun (while we still can) and enjoyed the whole experience. The beach was packed with umbrellas and people wearing bathing suits of every variety on every kind of body type. It's actually kind of nice to see people just not care about an extra big of squish and just be comfortable in their skin.
Once we got too hot we went to a ubiquitous beach side stand and shared a capirinha. (Shared because it's just 40% booze, sugar and limes-- delicious.)
Beautiful beach, great people watching and $4.50 drinks on the beach... Lake Erie you have been outshone.
After a bus tour of the city (read: bus driver says "yes, this bus goes to Copacabana" what he forgets to add is "...eventually",)we arrived. It was great-- soft white sand beaches, beautiful blue water, hot sun and hundreds of people. Hundreds. The beaches at Copacabana and ipanema are busy on weekends, so the Sunday of a national holiday... busy.
We walked on the surf for a while, soaking in some sun (while we still can) and enjoyed the whole experience. The beach was packed with umbrellas and people wearing bathing suits of every variety on every kind of body type. It's actually kind of nice to see people just not care about an extra big of squish and just be comfortable in their skin.
Once we got too hot we went to a ubiquitous beach side stand and shared a capirinha. (Shared because it's just 40% booze, sugar and limes-- delicious.)
Beautiful beach, great people watching and $4.50 drinks on the beach... Lake Erie you have been outshone.
Location:Copacabana, Rio, Brazil
Sunday 19 February 2012
Do as the revelers do!
Myrie and I convinced each other that we had to buy and wear something sparkly for carnival. We are both basically magpies, so it had to be sparkly. And it's 30+ every day, so it just made sense.
It was excellent-- we jingled when we walked.
Tonight we are off to try and see some sambadrome action-- mostly seen by people watching tv, or people with 100s of dollars to spare on tickets. We will try to catch some samba action before they enter the 'drome
and see those who inspire sparkly bra purchases...
Saturday 18 February 2012
Age means what you want it to
This morning after an early night last night, we ventured forth to the giant Jesus that overlooks Rio-- Christ the Redeemer, one of the new 7 wonders of the world. It's enormous-- it is a wonder how they ever got it o the top and assembled it...
Take a moment to google image search it ... Now add about 4 cruise tour groups and a pile of other people to whatever photo you searched. It was crowded. But totally worth it. It is also the site where my oldest sister was proposed to (awwwww) by her now husband.
We also met some incredible travelers-- a couple in their 70s who had just finished a cruise, were spending 4 days in Rio, home then cruise around Mediterranean, and then for their 50th anniversary they are taking their whole family in a cruise along the st Lawrence. There was also a woman who was 70 and grew up in Rio but now lives in Florida. She had photos of 7 year old her on the beach in Ipanema. She had just taken a cruise to the antarctic. Impressive!
These awesome and intrepid people inspire me, just like my Oma's amazing life of adventure does. I hope to one day travel and experience as much as she had.
Take a moment to google image search it ... Now add about 4 cruise tour groups and a pile of other people to whatever photo you searched. It was crowded. But totally worth it. It is also the site where my oldest sister was proposed to (awwwww) by her now husband.
We also met some incredible travelers-- a couple in their 70s who had just finished a cruise, were spending 4 days in Rio, home then cruise around Mediterranean, and then for their 50th anniversary they are taking their whole family in a cruise along the st Lawrence. There was also a woman who was 70 and grew up in Rio but now lives in Florida. She had photos of 7 year old her on the beach in Ipanema. She had just taken a cruise to the antarctic. Impressive!
These awesome and intrepid people inspire me, just like my Oma's amazing life of adventure does. I hope to one day travel and experience as much as she had.
Location:Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Friday 17 February 2012
Big bad Rio
The view from our "home stay" (read: not clean, guesthouse that happens to have a family living in it charging too much...like everyone in Rio right now...)
Good view!
Crazy land lady.
Not sure how many photos I will be taking with the iPhone.. But I will try to do word updates at the least.
Today after our nightbus and getting to the disappointing homestay we met some really friendly people. We all went downtown to go costume shopping, as everyone parties in costume all week long (fun fact: costume in Portuguese is "fantasia" I like it!) and then back to our neighbourhood, Santa Teresa, for their big "bloco" aka street party. It was packed full of people drinking and dancing-- just a 5 minute walk from where we are staying.
An early night tonight so we can get to the Christ the Redeemer statue before heading to ipanema for another bloco...
Good view!
Crazy land lady.
Not sure how many photos I will be taking with the iPhone.. But I will try to do word updates at the least.
Today after our nightbus and getting to the disappointing homestay we met some really friendly people. We all went downtown to go costume shopping, as everyone parties in costume all week long (fun fact: costume in Portuguese is "fantasia" I like it!) and then back to our neighbourhood, Santa Teresa, for their big "bloco" aka street party. It was packed full of people drinking and dancing-- just a 5 minute walk from where we are staying.
An early night tonight so we can get to the Christ the Redeemer statue before heading to ipanema for another bloco...
Location:Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Small town
One last walk around unesco heritage site small town goodness,
A little shopping...
And a little parade, with giant puppets,
Before we take a bus to big bad Rio. (don't worry we will be careful)
A little shopping...
And a little parade, with giant puppets,
Before we take a bus to big bad Rio. (don't worry we will be careful)
Location:Orou Preto, Brazil
Wednesday 15 February 2012
Bus laden plans...
We planned on taking the bus to bustling beach town Paraty. No seats left till the next day... So we went to Oro Preto instead!
11 hours on an overnight bus later,
I think it was worth it.
It's a former gold mining town full of pretty churches (none as gold as the one in Quito though) and surrounded by rolling green hills.
Throw in some delightful cafes, jewelry stores and
Pre-carnival drumming in the square outside our hostel window... Hard to beat.
One more day till Rio!
11 hours on an overnight bus later,
I think it was worth it.
It's a former gold mining town full of pretty churches (none as gold as the one in Quito though) and surrounded by rolling green hills.
Throw in some delightful cafes, jewelry stores and
Pre-carnival drumming in the square outside our hostel window... Hard to beat.
One more day till Rio!
Location:Oro Prato, Brazil
History
Over 40% of the African Slave trade ended up in Brazil.
I am not used to thinking about the enormity of the slave trade. In Canada i feel we skim the surface. The Afro-Brazil museum shines a light on it.
It's frightening how people can be so terrible.
I am not used to thinking about the enormity of the slave trade. In Canada i feel we skim the surface. The Afro-Brazil museum shines a light on it.
It's frightening how people can be so terrible.
Location:Sao Paulo, Brazil
You're-in luck (say it fast)
"there is a free one inside, it has everything" are excellent words to hear (free and everything! Excellent!) but why are you so excited? Of course there is a free toilet for you to use with toilet paper, running water and soap; you are not a backpacking hobo.
However one of the quirks of South American travel (aka time spent as a backpacking hobo) is that you rarely know when your next toilet is going to appear and what it's going to look like. On our trip we have had "free with everything" and we have also had to pay for a gross, bespattered, no running water, hole in the floor, with a remarkable stench (Bolivia's "Eco-toilets" I am looking at you).
The unknown (when will I find another an in what condition will it be in?) factor means:
-think twice before downing a bottle of water, 2 coffees and a fruit juice. Before and during bus trips we are mean to our bodies and are usually dehydrated. Few things are worse than bus toilets (we know, we had the misfortune of sitting next to one in Colombia. Gross)
-always carry toilet paper and hand sanitizer with you. Always.
-find water substitutions if you're not sure when the next toilet will appear. yogurt and ice cream are my preferred options
Paying to pee is not a new idea- I remember the first time I encountered it was in a small German town, 1995, I had just seen the door where Martin Luther nailed his thesis, and had not yet learned the rules. I don't remember how much it cost, but I remember thinking it wasn't worth the price. This is often the case: just because you've paid to pee doesn't mean anything more than just that. Toilet paper usually comes with the fee but cleanliness, running water, soap, toilet seats* and locks in doors are perks.
*this can be a pro or con depending on squatting above or sitting upon preferences
Ways to avoid the pay-to-pee situation, aside from the aforementioned dehydration tactic, focus mainly on learning about the good free places. They include:
- mcdonalds (or other evil mega chain)-- they are usually cleaned hourly and usually come fully equipped. Also no pressure to buy something as there are enough people there that they don't notice you
-fancy hotels-- as long as you don't actually look like the hobo you are (no giant backpack) and walk with enough authority, hotel staff will leave you alone. Hiltons, Hyatts, Four Seasons or other fancy looking places with fresh flowers on display are good bets. (Our best so far was in Cartagena, Colombia-- the disposable towel to dry your hands with felt so nice it felt wrong to throw them out).
- of course the snowsuit rule also applies- take advantage of situations before you've made them predictably much more difficult
Ultimately, it's about taking advantage of what you have (staying with friends for a few days? Drink up!) and being prepared (yes, both of you should take a roll of paper on the Inca Trail.) and remember: always always look to see if there is paper first.
However one of the quirks of South American travel (aka time spent as a backpacking hobo) is that you rarely know when your next toilet is going to appear and what it's going to look like. On our trip we have had "free with everything" and we have also had to pay for a gross, bespattered, no running water, hole in the floor, with a remarkable stench (Bolivia's "Eco-toilets" I am looking at you).
The unknown (when will I find another an in what condition will it be in?) factor means:
-think twice before downing a bottle of water, 2 coffees and a fruit juice. Before and during bus trips we are mean to our bodies and are usually dehydrated. Few things are worse than bus toilets (we know, we had the misfortune of sitting next to one in Colombia. Gross)
-always carry toilet paper and hand sanitizer with you. Always.
-find water substitutions if you're not sure when the next toilet will appear. yogurt and ice cream are my preferred options
Paying to pee is not a new idea- I remember the first time I encountered it was in a small German town, 1995, I had just seen the door where Martin Luther nailed his thesis, and had not yet learned the rules. I don't remember how much it cost, but I remember thinking it wasn't worth the price. This is often the case: just because you've paid to pee doesn't mean anything more than just that. Toilet paper usually comes with the fee but cleanliness, running water, soap, toilet seats* and locks in doors are perks.
*this can be a pro or con depending on squatting above or sitting upon preferences
Ways to avoid the pay-to-pee situation, aside from the aforementioned dehydration tactic, focus mainly on learning about the good free places. They include:
- mcdonalds (or other evil mega chain)-- they are usually cleaned hourly and usually come fully equipped. Also no pressure to buy something as there are enough people there that they don't notice you
-fancy hotels-- as long as you don't actually look like the hobo you are (no giant backpack) and walk with enough authority, hotel staff will leave you alone. Hiltons, Hyatts, Four Seasons or other fancy looking places with fresh flowers on display are good bets. (Our best so far was in Cartagena, Colombia-- the disposable towel to dry your hands with felt so nice it felt wrong to throw them out).
- of course the snowsuit rule also applies- take advantage of situations before you've made them predictably much more difficult
Ultimately, it's about taking advantage of what you have (staying with friends for a few days? Drink up!) and being prepared (yes, both of you should take a roll of paper on the Inca Trail.) and remember: always always look to see if there is paper first.
Monday 13 February 2012
Nananananana...
Part of our adventures between busses in Sao Paulo led us to take a bus past the Sao Paulo Cemetery (or necropolis in Portuguese), which I remembered was next to Boca de Batman, also known as an alley covered in graffiti.
Some really talented artists have left their mark.
Apparently it changes as different artists come along.
I particularly liked this guy.
The neighbourhood was full of interesting galleries, clothing and jewelry stores with work by local designers, and eclectic cafes. Reccommended.
Some really talented artists have left their mark.
Apparently it changes as different artists come along.
I particularly liked this guy.
The neighbourhood was full of interesting galleries, clothing and jewelry stores with work by local designers, and eclectic cafes. Reccommended.
Location:Sao Paulo, Brazil
Brazilian Bus Adventures
Enjoying the hospitality of Josh, we decided to stay another nigh in Sao Paulo. With an extra day, we headed for Embu-- a former artist colony on the outskirts of the city.
Armed with directions from Josh we set out to the bus station. 10 minutes into our attempt we were closer to being lost than anything else. Thankfully Brazilian kindness pulled through and with #1 Helpful Brazilian Stranger told us the name of the bus to catch, #2 HBS wrote down in Portuguese how to ask for our connection #3 HBS was the money taker on the bus and got off and pointed us in the right direction for the connection.
Once we got to the town, it was lovely.
Filled with nice handicrafts and things for my one day home...
Then it was #4 HBS who told us where to catch the bus, #5 helped us catch the other and one more #6 was the driver of the bus who helped us transfer to our last bus of the day.
Those who have heard of our Mexican bus trips know that we often wind up relying on helpful strangers to guide us through our misadventures, thankfully Brazil seems to be fully stocked.
Armed with directions from Josh we set out to the bus station. 10 minutes into our attempt we were closer to being lost than anything else. Thankfully Brazilian kindness pulled through and with #1 Helpful Brazilian Stranger told us the name of the bus to catch, #2 HBS wrote down in Portuguese how to ask for our connection #3 HBS was the money taker on the bus and got off and pointed us in the right direction for the connection.
Once we got to the town, it was lovely.
Filled with nice handicrafts and things for my one day home...
Then it was #4 HBS who told us where to catch the bus, #5 helped us catch the other and one more #6 was the driver of the bus who helped us transfer to our last bus of the day.
Those who have heard of our Mexican bus trips know that we often wind up relying on helpful strangers to guide us through our misadventures, thankfully Brazil seems to be fully stocked.
Location:Sao Paulo, Brazil
Fearless football fans
Today Myrie and I convinced our host, Josh (a friend we made while traveling in Colombia who is teaching at a fancy English private school in SP) that he wanted to go with us to a soccer game. And not any game, one of the big rivalries in Sao Paulo: SPFC vs Corinthians Paulista:
Fancy SPFC vs blue collar Corinthians. We were in the Corinthian stadium and cheering section. Lots of hooligans and drunk fans around... Enough that we were a little worried about safety so we took the bare minimum with us, so no photos.
(Bieber is tough enough to hang out with Corinthians)
We also did not have tickets, and it was sold out. So or the first time (for me at least, can't speak for Josh or Myrie) we bought tickets from a scalper. A bit nervous if they would work, and they did. Score one for us.
(scalped, and blurry in this photo, but real)
Once in the stadium, instead of trying to find our actual seats we tried to find a spot that had a higher percentage of families with small children than drunken hooligans. We were moderately successful. 2 families in front of us, one loud drunk guy behind us (who had a pretty limited vocabulary, small enough that if you were playing a drinking game using one portuguese swear word, you'd be in the ground by halftime).
(photo from tv recap)
The corinthians scored the first goal into the first half, and also the only goal of the game (joy counting us getting in). We left the game early for post game soccer hooligan fear and to better get a taxi. Score again for us--- taxi in 3 minutes and no hooligans. We felt pretty fortunate -- walking though the bleachers there were more than enough big, drunk, scary looking dudes. Also, it had POURED rain for almost the entire game.
Now, with 10 days to go, we have been to Brazil's legendary beaches, seen a crazy football game and it's fans... Just carnival left to complete the trifecta.
Fancy SPFC vs blue collar Corinthians. We were in the Corinthian stadium and cheering section. Lots of hooligans and drunk fans around... Enough that we were a little worried about safety so we took the bare minimum with us, so no photos.
(Bieber is tough enough to hang out with Corinthians)
We also did not have tickets, and it was sold out. So or the first time (for me at least, can't speak for Josh or Myrie) we bought tickets from a scalper. A bit nervous if they would work, and they did. Score one for us.
(scalped, and blurry in this photo, but real)
Once in the stadium, instead of trying to find our actual seats we tried to find a spot that had a higher percentage of families with small children than drunken hooligans. We were moderately successful. 2 families in front of us, one loud drunk guy behind us (who had a pretty limited vocabulary, small enough that if you were playing a drinking game using one portuguese swear word, you'd be in the ground by halftime).
(photo from tv recap)
The corinthians scored the first goal into the first half, and also the only goal of the game (joy counting us getting in). We left the game early for post game soccer hooligan fear and to better get a taxi. Score again for us--- taxi in 3 minutes and no hooligans. We felt pretty fortunate -- walking though the bleachers there were more than enough big, drunk, scary looking dudes. Also, it had POURED rain for almost the entire game.
Now, with 10 days to go, we have been to Brazil's legendary beaches, seen a crazy football game and it's fans... Just carnival left to complete the trifecta.
Saturday 11 February 2012
Japan-aries!
Yes, japan-aries. That was Myrie's suggestion for the title of this post and I am keeping it.
We went out to Liberdade neighbourhood, home of a Japan-town. I went in hopes of purchasing delicious ume-shu (plum wine) and chi-hai (like vodka tonic in a can, but amazing). Success for the ume, sad disappointment for the chu-hai. If we were looking for pretty dishes, would have been success!
But I already have foolishly carted dishes between countries. Not again. Although I did love a cute bowl with a crab painted on it... No! Be strong!
It didn't take long for Myrie to get back into the Asian frame of mind. Peacu! And plastic food. So Japanese!
We also bough anko-fish (yum!) and canned ice coffee (not yum).
It was a happy trip down memory lane, leaving me with delicious ume-shu to comfort me when I am back in (suddenly) snowy Canada in 11 days (!suddenly!)
We went out to Liberdade neighbourhood, home of a Japan-town. I went in hopes of purchasing delicious ume-shu (plum wine) and chi-hai (like vodka tonic in a can, but amazing). Success for the ume, sad disappointment for the chu-hai. If we were looking for pretty dishes, would have been success!
But I already have foolishly carted dishes between countries. Not again. Although I did love a cute bowl with a crab painted on it... No! Be strong!
It didn't take long for Myrie to get back into the Asian frame of mind. Peacu! And plastic food. So Japanese!
We also bough anko-fish (yum!) and canned ice coffee (not yum).
It was a happy trip down memory lane, leaving me with delicious ume-shu to comfort me when I am back in (suddenly) snowy Canada in 11 days (!suddenly!)
Location:Sao Paulo, Brazil
Sao delicious!
Wandering through the municipal market in Sao Paulo, vendors offer you samples.
Of delicious delicious fruit. We tried: strawberries, mystery green fruit that is white on the inside (maybe a guanbana/soursop? But smaller?) a more delicious orange/tangerine, Jabuticaba, mangosteen and more. At one point I decided I would buy that tasty orange thing, but it was over $6! For one! Thanks for the samples but $6? For an orange?
Other aisles specialize in cheese-- we tried a very delicious mozzarella with herbs (So good we went back for more later) Gouda, and more. Some of the best cheese we have had. So good! Did not try to buy cheese.
Full of delicious samples we wandered around some more, saw the above-- a fancy theatre, and some more delightful sights. Sao good!
Of delicious delicious fruit. We tried: strawberries, mystery green fruit that is white on the inside (maybe a guanbana/soursop? But smaller?) a more delicious orange/tangerine, Jabuticaba, mangosteen and more. At one point I decided I would buy that tasty orange thing, but it was over $6! For one! Thanks for the samples but $6? For an orange?
Other aisles specialize in cheese-- we tried a very delicious mozzarella with herbs (So good we went back for more later) Gouda, and more. Some of the best cheese we have had. So good! Did not try to buy cheese.
Full of delicious samples we wandered around some more, saw the above-- a fancy theatre, and some more delightful sights. Sao good!
Location:Sao Paulo, Brazil
Thursday 9 February 2012
2 lists
Sitting on a bus for 6 hours with no book to read has led to the following 2 lists.
Things I am looking forward to:
-family and friends, of course.
-MY bed. Not the bed that countless others were in before me and will be once I leave. Not a bed I have to climb up a ladder to get into, (if there is a ladder, and it isn't facing a wall) and no polyester sheets.
-a fridge and cupboard full of things to eat and drink, that I can have at my whim, not worrying about how clean it is, if I can have another glass of something to drink or am I going on a bus for 6 hours... Or 8 or 12...or 26...
-no more backpack living! No cramming all I own into a limited space and carting it around. I would make a terrible turtle. Who wants to carry their home with them? Not me.
-speaking the local language. I didn't realize it as much in the Spanish part of South America, but Brazil has made me realize how valuable it is to understand and be understood.
Things I Will Miss:
-the adventures! The more you travel the more you realize how much there is out there to see, experience, adventure, taste, do... Even in Peru and Ecuador-- where we saw a lot-- there are still places I want to go see
-fruit. There are piles of fruits that we just don't get in Canada because they don't travel well. Maracuya (yellow fleshed passion fruit) might be the one I will miss most. Add the abundance of fruit to juice ladies in markets, blending 2+ flavours together for $1.50...
- Meeting people all the time, for better (and rarely, but sometimes, worse). Meeting fellow travelers from all over the world, meeting friendly locals who share their life with you. Life in Canada doesn't seem to provide the same sort of encounters
-the heat. I do miss sweaters and not sweating, but overall, give me summer. Unless you would like to start my car in the cold, and can get rid of all the slushy grey that seems to accompany winter in Southern Ontario.
-seeing tropical houseplants and summer annuals growing huge in the wild. So cool!
-my travel partner. It's a huge blessing to be able to travel with a friend for so long and still be friends at the end. And it's crazy to realize that we have spent more time together outside Canada than in it. Canada-- get smaller! (or flights at least get cheaper)
Things I am looking forward to:
-family and friends, of course.
-MY bed. Not the bed that countless others were in before me and will be once I leave. Not a bed I have to climb up a ladder to get into, (if there is a ladder, and it isn't facing a wall) and no polyester sheets.
-a fridge and cupboard full of things to eat and drink, that I can have at my whim, not worrying about how clean it is, if I can have another glass of something to drink or am I going on a bus for 6 hours... Or 8 or 12...or 26...
-no more backpack living! No cramming all I own into a limited space and carting it around. I would make a terrible turtle. Who wants to carry their home with them? Not me.
-speaking the local language. I didn't realize it as much in the Spanish part of South America, but Brazil has made me realize how valuable it is to understand and be understood.
Things I Will Miss:
-the adventures! The more you travel the more you realize how much there is out there to see, experience, adventure, taste, do... Even in Peru and Ecuador-- where we saw a lot-- there are still places I want to go see
-fruit. There are piles of fruits that we just don't get in Canada because they don't travel well. Maracuya (yellow fleshed passion fruit) might be the one I will miss most. Add the abundance of fruit to juice ladies in markets, blending 2+ flavours together for $1.50...
- Meeting people all the time, for better (and rarely, but sometimes, worse). Meeting fellow travelers from all over the world, meeting friendly locals who share their life with you. Life in Canada doesn't seem to provide the same sort of encounters
-the heat. I do miss sweaters and not sweating, but overall, give me summer. Unless you would like to start my car in the cold, and can get rid of all the slushy grey that seems to accompany winter in Southern Ontario.
-seeing tropical houseplants and summer annuals growing huge in the wild. So cool!
-my travel partner. It's a huge blessing to be able to travel with a friend for so long and still be friends at the end. And it's crazy to realize that we have spent more time together outside Canada than in it. Canada-- get smaller! (or flights at least get cheaper)
Numbers and superlatives
113 days ago I got on a plane bound for Lima, Peru. And now, I am sitting on a bus headed for Sao Paulo, Brazil with just 13 days left before I catch a plane from Rio and head north. In many ways it feels longer, in a few, shorter.
In our 4 months we have visited 7 countries. (Peru, Bolivia, Chile (for 3 days), Ecuador, Colombia, Argentina (for 3 days), Brazil). I think we toured Peru and Ecuador the most thoroughly (minus the glalapogos...next time..).
Argentina and Chile both had delicious food but were just too expensive to stay in. Along with the Gallapagos, I think they will require a separate trip one day...
Colombia was the biggest surprise-- we didn't really realize how excellent it would be and all of the things to do there. Bolivia also impressed us with fantastic scenery (and so many superlatives-- highest capital city, poorest) and a wealth of untaken adventures. I would love to go back to either country again and keep exploring.
People have been kind where ever we go, but Colombia and Brazil have been the winners for sure. Friendly, smiling, generous, kind, helpful-- just great.
Peru and Bolivia had the most colorful locals-- lots of traditional dress with the Otovallans in Ecuador of course getting a mention. I think generally, the richer the country, the less traditional dress. This was most noticeable leaving Bolivia (very poor) for Chile (one of the richest countries in SA).
Bolivia was the cheapest-- but also the most basic. A hostel might only be $5 but bring your own toilet paper and soap. Colombia and Brazil have been the most expensive, and I think would be most of the time, but we were also there during high season, which didn't help.
As for best and worst things to do... I'm going to wait till I have 12 hours in transit to get back home to snowy Canada and have done all I can do before I tackle those.
In our 4 months we have visited 7 countries. (Peru, Bolivia, Chile (for 3 days), Ecuador, Colombia, Argentina (for 3 days), Brazil). I think we toured Peru and Ecuador the most thoroughly (minus the glalapogos...next time..).
Argentina and Chile both had delicious food but were just too expensive to stay in. Along with the Gallapagos, I think they will require a separate trip one day...
Colombia was the biggest surprise-- we didn't really realize how excellent it would be and all of the things to do there. Bolivia also impressed us with fantastic scenery (and so many superlatives-- highest capital city, poorest) and a wealth of untaken adventures. I would love to go back to either country again and keep exploring.
People have been kind where ever we go, but Colombia and Brazil have been the winners for sure. Friendly, smiling, generous, kind, helpful-- just great.
Peru and Bolivia had the most colorful locals-- lots of traditional dress with the Otovallans in Ecuador of course getting a mention. I think generally, the richer the country, the less traditional dress. This was most noticeable leaving Bolivia (very poor) for Chile (one of the richest countries in SA).
Bolivia was the cheapest-- but also the most basic. A hostel might only be $5 but bring your own toilet paper and soap. Colombia and Brazil have been the most expensive, and I think would be most of the time, but we were also there during high season, which didn't help.
As for best and worst things to do... I'm going to wait till I have 12 hours in transit to get back home to snowy Canada and have done all I can do before I tackle those.
Location:South America
Maggie
How difficult is it to take photos of a puppy while you rub her belly?
Hmmm...
Difficult if she is a wiggeler
But it can be done!
Easier when she is not in your lap, that's for sure.
This is Maggie, the 4 month old puppy of the people we are visiting. So cute!
Soon a quick lunch and then on to Sao Paulo!
Hmmm...
Difficult if she is a wiggeler
But it can be done!
Easier when she is not in your lap, that's for sure.
This is Maggie, the 4 month old puppy of the people we are visiting. So cute!
Soon a quick lunch and then on to Sao Paulo!
Location:Curitiba, Brazil
Wednesday 8 February 2012
It seems obvious now...
Tip: do not burn your bum. Even just a little part of it. No good.
Ilha Do Mel was lovely but too hot. 30+ and no ac to cool down in. Time to hide my sunburned self in some shorts, or a dress, or maybe a t-shirt? I can't believe I'm saying it... But it would be nice to put on a t-shirt and not melt. Remind me of this when I am freezing in march.
Ilha Do Mel was lovely but too hot. 30+ and no ac to cool down in. Time to hide my sunburned self in some shorts, or a dress, or maybe a t-shirt? I can't believe I'm saying it... But it would be nice to put on a t-shirt and not melt. Remind me of this when I am freezing in march.
Location:Brazil
Tuesday 7 February 2012
Say it ain't so!
Even abs like taylor's aren't exempt.
But what if you take off your shirt to use it as a glove? There's gotta be an exception to this rule somehow...
Location:Paranagua, Brazil
Pirates love hiding...
Booty. As Myrie demonstrates.
This was one of the only places on the beach to find shade-- a grotto that hides when the tide is high. Good for pirates for booty, good for us for shade.
Location:Ilha Do Mel, Brazil
Monday 6 February 2012
The sweet life
We went for a walk around the island today to see an old fort,
It was a bit farther than we thought,
And we might have worn sarongs like head scarves to keep the sun off,
But we made it, and I have passed time in worse ways in worse places.
It was a bit farther than we thought,
And we might have worn sarongs like head scarves to keep the sun off,
But we made it, and I have passed time in worse ways in worse places.
Location:Ilha Do Mel
Sunday 5 February 2012
Travel tales
Up early to catch the once a week train to the coast. Except starting this year, that train leaves at 7:50, not 8:15 and is smaller, so there is no space for you. Instead take the regular train to a cute town and from there catch a bus. Oh, and economy is sold out, so pelase pay more for a Portuguese guide and some snacks.
Good views though.
After wandering around the cute town for a bit in the unbelievable humidity and heat, you eat delicious Jabuticaba flavoured frozen yogurt. Highly recommended.
then to catch the bus! Except it's Sunday, so the schedule is different, even though that information is posted nowhere. The regular week day one is posted everywhere though. But there is yet a bus to catch, which is good, and it will give you time to catch the boat to Ilha Do Mel (honey island). As long as there is room on the boat...
There is. It was just the 2 of us as passengers.
And then, there you are. Sitting in the deck of your hostel, swatting mosquitos, drinking a beer, hearing waves on the shore, thinking fondly of the kindness of your hosts in the morning, the beautiful views in the train, delicious frozen yogurt...
Good views though.
After wandering around the cute town for a bit in the unbelievable humidity and heat, you eat delicious Jabuticaba flavoured frozen yogurt. Highly recommended.
then to catch the bus! Except it's Sunday, so the schedule is different, even though that information is posted nowhere. The regular week day one is posted everywhere though. But there is yet a bus to catch, which is good, and it will give you time to catch the boat to Ilha Do Mel (honey island). As long as there is room on the boat...
There is. It was just the 2 of us as passengers.
And then, there you are. Sitting in the deck of your hostel, swatting mosquitos, drinking a beer, hearing waves on the shore, thinking fondly of the kindness of your hosts in the morning, the beautiful views in the train, delicious frozen yogurt...
Location:Ilha Do Mel, Brazil
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